Ambrym: Mt Marum Volcano!!

We hiked Mt Marum Volcano while on Ambrym.  Epic hike that took us through the jungle, ash plain, then up to the rim to gaze into the deep at the boiling lava lake!  Volcanoes have become something so very special to me on this trip across the Pacific, starting on the Big Island, Hawaii...

Silica strands are blasted out of the volcano and rain down all over the place.  Dubbed "Pig's Hairs"...

The first big crater we came to.  no lava, but DEEP!

So beautiful!!

The glow from the volcano as we were hiking back...

Ambrym: Craig Cove!

We motored around the West end of Ambrym to anchor at Craig Cove.  From here, we will hike the volcano!

glass day motoring around to Craig Cove

local cargo boat

Ambrym: Megapod!

Megapod birds inhabit Ambrym and bury their eggs in the dirt where they are heated by the volcanic vents.  They don't hang about, so we were free to dig them up!  We didn't show up knowing how to do this, but the kids camping on the beach showed us how to do it, and we were so stoked.  We found about 5 eggs, fried up a few, then put the rest in some brownies.  YUM!!

Eggs wrapped up to bring home.

 Megapod!!

 Oops!  this one was a little overdeveloped.  crunchies!

 Oh Yeah!!

Ambrym!!

Ambrym had been one of the places we were focused on getting to while in Vanuatu.  We finally made it!
Our first anchorage was off a village named Ranon, which is known for its wood carving.  We picked some flutes, then made our way west a bit to a spot we heard had hot springs.  It was beautiful!

 These were some local kids who paddled their canoes down the coast to camp on the beach.  They brought a bit of water and some bananas, otherwise just fished and gathered their food for the camp trip.  

Hot spring water mixing with volcanic mud equals hot mud bath!

Tikopia: Lake hike!

Today we hike over the ridge to check out the lake!  We meet another chief, Taomaka, who grants us permission to stay.

 The kids showed us this tree we could knock nuts out of.  One of them climbed up and scored!

 Chilling at Lake Tikopia, cracking open nuts

 the nut!

our guides :)

Tikopia: Canoe!

As usual, the canoes in these islands are a passion of mine

 small sail.  big cloud.

 paddling out for an evening fish

 Tikopia also received a sailing canoe, like Anuta.  Lapita Tikopia!

Tikopia: Lost Boys!

Just like on Anuta, these kids were rad!

John, the kid on the left, went surfing with me.  Me on the longboard, and him on the surf mat, he would hold on to the tail of the board as I paddled out, then we would catch a wave and scream together!  So much fun!   As the sun is setting I watch a squall come through, sweeping across the island, and it was one of the most beautiful moments I've ever had...

Tikiopia: Welcome!

The routine on Tikopia was similar to Anuta, in that we were required to meet the chief (stoked to meet the chief!) to be granted permission to stay.  We crawl on our hands and knees, keeping our heads down, into the chief's home.  He then lifts our face, pressing forehead to forehead, and nose to nose, breathing deeply.  This is our introduction to Chief Tafua!  He welcomes us, and gives us permission to stay for the time we planned.
Something that we did not hear about in Anuta, Chief Tafua explains to us the relationship between Tikopia (Anuta also) and the Solomon Islands government. Due to the remote nature of these two islands, an agreement has been made where the chiefs of these islands are the ones in charge.  If a situation were to occur where a police force would be necessary (rare, if ever), then it is up to the chief to handle the situation, and it is not the responsibility of the Solomon government.  Because of this agreement, it is also the chief's right to grant permission to visiting sailors to stay.  Normally, when entering a new country via sailboat, one must enter in specified ports to clear immigration and customs.  On Anuta and Tikopia, it is the chiefs that "clear" you in.  It sounded like there can still be some difficulties around this, and if I were to continue on to the Solomon Islands I would not mention that I'd been in Tikopia, but it was nice to get this bit of info, even though I had fully intended not to clear into the Solomon Islands before visiting Anuta and Tikiopia.

Chief Tafua, and some little ones.  He would give them his already chewed up betel nut and these kids would go crazy! 

Tikopia home.  Much bigger than on Anuta.

The kids ran down the beach when we came ashore, and were fighting with each other for who got hold our hands :)

These kids had obviously seen more movies than the Anutans...

Zach and the kids!

Village life !!

Tikopia!!

The big sister to Anuta, lying 60 miles to the Southwest, is Tikopia.  A beautiful island, with half the crater blown out, and a lake sitting right in the middle, Tikopia is nearly as remote as Anuta, and Tikopians live a traditional Polynesian life.
Our route was putting us close to Tikopia, but we weren't planning on stopping there, being that we were on somewhat of a schedule to get to Vanuatu.  After leaving Anuta in the afternoon, we sailed overnight towards Vanuatu, but the wind died off unexpectedly the next day.  With Tikopia now visible on the horizon, just 30 miles to the West, it became obvious that we were to sail there.  Well, with almost no wind, sailing alone wasn't going to get is there, so we turned on the engine, and "motor-sailed" our way, arriving just before sunset.

One of our greeters upon Arrival in Tikopia showing us his catch

 We traded some fishing line and a lure for fresh tuna from this dude.  Sashimi!!!

Farewell Anuta!

We leave Anuta in the afternoon, sailing for Vanuatu, after saying good bye to the greatest place I've ever been.  The people are so beautiful and friendly, with smiles so deep, that four days felt like four lifetimes.  Just big time love out here, and I can't wait to visit again!

Our supplies leaving Anuta!